tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-12644135891319595132024-03-13T02:22:50.403+01:00emi's blogEmihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05894702583512613454noreply@blogger.comBlogger39125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1264413589131959513.post-64780224622214261232013-04-24T10:22:00.000+02:002013-04-24T10:58:44.853+02:00Ötztal SessionsIn the past view weeks spring has finally arrived here in Austria, the cold and snow has vanished of our valley grounds, uncovering the near by blocs in the Ötztal from their hibernation... I personally love winter for all it's beauty and pleasures it offers here in the center of the Alps, hiking up the mountains and ride powder really can catch up with climbing that's for sure! But at the same time I can't wait to escape the crowded and dusty gyms and go climb for real again as soon as the local crags are on.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlnqa96XTj1jN0LsSDxTE1_TqssyyTco7As9y0CB_1O0qTM8JYK6gBGvER3iL7-5QTrUk_xWqfBPLyxMZvLoCBTN-tLao2S3COpthmfeW4UXnGW_dThnCjFCaqgBSan3wYyPTls0qlMd0/s1600/FloMurnig_Tumpen-9138.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="425" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlnqa96XTj1jN0LsSDxTE1_TqssyyTco7As9y0CB_1O0qTM8JYK6gBGvER3iL7-5QTrUk_xWqfBPLyxMZvLoCBTN-tLao2S3COpthmfeW4UXnGW_dThnCjFCaqgBSan3wYyPTls0qlMd0/s640/FloMurnig_Tumpen-9138.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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It all started a couple weeks ago when I headed out of office on a friday afternoon to go and meet some friends at Tumpen Bloc for a quick session. It's the bigger one of the two major areas in the valley and thanks to some highly motivated and creative young guns and locals there's always something new to try. This time Flo Schmalzl has digged out and First Ascended another gem called "The drunken Master" (8A), a big line that sit starts in a small cave and tops out at about 5 meters off the deck, 15 moves of brilliant climbing! When I got there only one of my mates <a href="http://flomurnig.dynamo.at/">Flo Murnig</a> was still there but the man is a beast and brought 3(!!) crashpads just by himself! So it would be padded nicely.... I warmed up quickly then tried another bloc called "Am Wasser gebaut" (7C+), a cool roof-climb with tiny crimps and a weird swing at the lip! I was able to hold it tight and top that one out, fingers where more than warm and psyche was high. <br />
Flo just did The drunken Master earlier that day and had some nice beta to offer! With 15 moves it still took me a while to get everything dialed but when the puzzle seemed solved, I gave it a rest, cooled down my tips and gave the rig a try... The moves felt fluid and everything clicked perfectly, Flo gave me a good spot and motivating shouts and moments later I stood atop of the boulder... Infected with that bouldering virus once again!!! ;)<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRqm_Qk038Oprr9PJfmT41tGqBEuFHmbJqxjOC5yhMig34rZY1A5SMsEsjISRUOY1VERKZj5oK6KJ8xVbGHuC-ngSCwDcAg83VAxBSPqezvp4om6rkFzSfjnNbl4GCZyv6rpBNVevgeX8/s1600/FloMurnig_Tumpen_The+drunken+Master+8A.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRqm_Qk038Oprr9PJfmT41tGqBEuFHmbJqxjOC5yhMig34rZY1A5SMsEsjISRUOY1VERKZj5oK6KJ8xVbGHuC-ngSCwDcAg83VAxBSPqezvp4om6rkFzSfjnNbl4GCZyv6rpBNVevgeX8/s640/FloMurnig_Tumpen_The+drunken+Master+8A.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The drunken Master 8A</td></tr>
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Soon after that motivating session I went to check out the other area in the valley, the Sherwood Forest. It was my first visit and so much fun to have so many new boulders to get on! The blocs are really close to each other so you just drag your pad from bloc to bloc and climb climb climb.... We did a lot of bouldering that day and also set eye on two cool lines there: One of them is a traverse on really polished granite with some bad slopers and moves that require a lot of feeling... It's called "Das Individuum" (somewhere in the 8A/B range, it's hard to grade!). The other one is just around the corner and marks the highest line of the area, really eye-catching and still a project... Both where cleaned by local ace <a href="http://www.k3-climbing.at/">Bernie</a>, who did the <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WS9bkesxYuI">FA of Individuum</a> and many of the other hard lines there.... respect!!!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxTbeRZ64E-Ky7nA6n8qRBsz_vFiK_DtJnm7wviSKy1mW2XkQzWMb7WJi70ANZPvkxXqVwpR6fdzHL-dQ4ruom3MqyU8sNOM05noZw-MfhMtV9D0qmkJVdQkflHQ9BvFBYiNNaEml-oYE/s1600/Robin+Hood+8A_FA_Screenshot.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxTbeRZ64E-Ky7nA6n8qRBsz_vFiK_DtJnm7wviSKy1mW2XkQzWMb7WJi70ANZPvkxXqVwpR6fdzHL-dQ4ruom3MqyU8sNOM05noZw-MfhMtV9D0qmkJVdQkflHQ9BvFBYiNNaEml-oYE/s640/Robin+Hood+8A_FA_Screenshot.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">FA of Robin Hood 8A</td></tr>
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Those two boulders really got me hooked. Bernie was keen that I got on the project so I brought a rope the other day, cleaned the topout and figured out the moves.... After struggling at first I found a really cool sequence for the tricky crux, with some crazy heelhooks and toehooks..... Dam I was on fire! I pulled off the rope and immediately started trying it from the ground... It's quite high, the lip is at 5 meters I would say but the landing is good. I took some falls that first day and realized it's no problem.<br />
I was back on it a couple days later, racing away from work, psyched to get on it again! This time I was well rested, cleaned the mantle once again, did the crux a couple times, pulled the rope and it went down first try..... What a boulder, Bernie was there too and he said he always wanted that proud one to be named Robin Hood when it's finally climbed, so that's what we named it then.... Big moves, cool moves a proud line! Around 8A I think but others should tell! Thanks to Tobi for a good spot ;)<br />
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After Robin Hood I put my focus on the Individuum and two days ago I was able to "Feel" through the crux moves and topped it out as well (thanx to <a href="http://www.boulderschof.com/">Boulderschof</a> for the spot!)..... Good times! <br />
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The Sherwood - ascents were caught on film and below is a little clip of the action, enjoy!<br />
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<i>Emi</i><br />
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<i><i><iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="366" mozallowfullscreen="" src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/64667350" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="650"></iframe> <a href="http://vimeo.com/64667350">Sherwood Blocs</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user8617229">Moon Climbing</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.</i></i></div>
Emihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05894702583512613454noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1264413589131959513.post-48117346708235107862012-09-22T19:01:00.001+02:002013-12-27T21:27:07.844+01:00Mallorca<div style="text-align: center;">
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">After being
in Kalymnos last year we were looking for a new destination for our short summer
trip of 2012 and stumbled across Mallorca. From a climbers perspective, the
island is mostly known for it's great Deep Water Soloing (DWS) opportunities.
Not such a commonly known thing is the great amount of top sport climbing crags
it has to offer. And besides all the climbing possibilities it simply is an extremely
beautiful island with a wide variety of different landscapes and atmospheres,
amazing beaches and mountains up to 1500 meters above the sea. So a ten day
trip was booked, a perfect opportunity to get a glimpse of this amazing place
and all it's treasures...</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Having
returned just a couple of days ago I can tell that our expectations were
totally met! Great sunny weather (a bit too hot for hard climbing but
whatever), great beaches and places, the cliffs were really impressive and we
even just saw about a handful of them... and we also spent one day going to
Cala Barques for a <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>DWS session, the first
time I actually did DWS and I really really dig it! This free feeling of
climbing high above the water without a rope or anything that's hindering you <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>is truly breathtaking... It's playful like
bouldering but flowing like route climbing and you're doing it above deep blue
water, the sun shining and a cool breeze from the ocean... Great experience and
something I will get back to in the future.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Here are
some pictures of our trip and a little video were I am climbing "Commando
Madrid" 8b in Les Perxes. This route out of a horizontal cave is one of
the best sportclimbs I set hands on so far... It has<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>different types of cruxes all the way up and
a really hard last move!</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">If you
haven't been, go there! Mallorca is rad!</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<i><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Emi</span></i><br />
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
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<div style="text-align: center;">
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<iframe allowfullscreen="allowfullscreen" frameborder="0" height="366" mozallowfullscreen="mozallowfullscreen" src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/49968840" webkitallowfullscreen="webkitallowfullscreen" width="650"></iframe></div>
<div style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://vimeo.com/49968840">Emi Moosburger on Commando Madrid 8b</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user8617229">Moon Climbing</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
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<div style="text-align: center;">
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>Emihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05894702583512613454noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1264413589131959513.post-53368870830254991582012-05-13T21:45:00.000+02:002012-05-13T21:46:49.323+02:00La Coka NostraFootage of sending "La Coka Nostra" 8A+, a quite new line in Tumpen, Ötztal. It's a great compression climb that reminded me a bit of Black Shadow and The Vice in Rocklands....<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="366" mozallowfullscreen="" src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/42026229?title=0&byline=0&portrait=0" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="650"></iframe></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://vimeo.com/42026229">La Coka Nostra 8A+</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user8617229">Moon Climbing</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.</div>
<br />Emihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05894702583512613454noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1264413589131959513.post-9082420217543696862012-04-15T15:12:00.003+02:002012-04-15T15:27:43.308+02:00Bouldering Nationals 2012Yesterday, April 14th 2012, the Austrian Bouldering Nationals were held in Kitzbühel, Tirol.<br />
<br />
This year I decided to take a break of the comp scene because I am doing my diploma at Uni besides working half time so there would not be much room and time flexability for comps and I'd rather spend my free time on the rock than on comp walls. But the nationals were one of the events I wanted to attend anyway so I was well excited when the day came and we drove to the comp site.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4-FMpdNSqVz7B5MtHR9G0v-arxIL76ExQQuUCAuTiJLZvlJmL58aIDqPIcH1kTB3ayhZuVUyumx9h2lRnv_T_svyx3rXbXJA3eLovh98xZ7dV_Je2qqMVlmI5ZYDtBcyptu7CU2YQOLo/s1600/FloMurnig_KR_HerrenFinale-27.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="425" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4-FMpdNSqVz7B5MtHR9G0v-arxIL76ExQQuUCAuTiJLZvlJmL58aIDqPIcH1kTB3ayhZuVUyumx9h2lRnv_T_svyx3rXbXJA3eLovh98xZ7dV_Je2qqMVlmI5ZYDtBcyptu7CU2YQOLo/s640/FloMurnig_KR_HerrenFinale-27.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">discussing beta</td></tr>
</tbody></table><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdZHdqBjA-Co4Tw2zcxNkFKOjFII7c863BYpXP8Dez-5udey29co_bROWNos1AwvIWgjyhWvEMZ8LmUBGANZ7ICgvBko4cjyh9CVRfHQieLHk7vegmdwuL8Xzo8h3tDECE_wvlqxWEeAw/s1600/FloMurnig_KR_HerrenFinale-17.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdZHdqBjA-Co4Tw2zcxNkFKOjFII7c863BYpXP8Dez-5udey29co_bROWNos1AwvIWgjyhWvEMZ8LmUBGANZ7ICgvBko4cjyh9CVRfHQieLHk7vegmdwuL8Xzo8h3tDECE_wvlqxWEeAw/s1600/FloMurnig_KR_HerrenFinale-17.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><br />
</a><br />
<br />
<br />
I trained a lot indoors the past months and felt in good shape, but had no clue what to expect, just that making finals would be a cool thing. With 44 starters in the male category, of which the best 8 would advance into the last round, it seemed like quite a challenge! The growing amount of strong comp boulderers and kids in the last years is just crazy!!<br />
<br />
The quali went really well, I was able to top out 5 of the 8 problems and qualified for finals on 5th place, very pleased! <br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggTdVPNYzscpeq9BrOcr1UkIxeBRDINIZBAbnrNchk86ckTv8cciVVIyQbgz0lN1yAkqjiXc1iZRgGHYmQHXfakFUxk2cXhz00LxgHgAZ4zI9qsqb-1seuuO2Nh2dNbqe9yvTPBGhZ4UI/s1600/FloMurnig_KR_HerrenFinale-6.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggTdVPNYzscpeq9BrOcr1UkIxeBRDINIZBAbnrNchk86ckTv8cciVVIyQbgz0lN1yAkqjiXc1iZRgGHYmQHXfakFUxk2cXhz00LxgHgAZ4zI9qsqb-1seuuO2Nh2dNbqe9yvTPBGhZ4UI/s320/FloMurnig_KR_HerrenFinale-6.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">worst enemy</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdZHdqBjA-Co4Tw2zcxNkFKOjFII7c863BYpXP8Dez-5udey29co_bROWNos1AwvIWgjyhWvEMZ8LmUBGANZ7ICgvBko4cjyh9CVRfHQieLHk7vegmdwuL8Xzo8h3tDECE_wvlqxWEeAw/s1600/FloMurnig_KR_HerrenFinale-17.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdZHdqBjA-Co4Tw2zcxNkFKOjFII7c863BYpXP8Dez-5udey29co_bROWNos1AwvIWgjyhWvEMZ8LmUBGANZ7ICgvBko4cjyh9CVRfHQieLHk7vegmdwuL8Xzo8h3tDECE_wvlqxWEeAw/s320/FloMurnig_KR_HerrenFinale-17.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">time check</td></tr>
</tbody> </table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggTdVPNYzscpeq9BrOcr1UkIxeBRDINIZBAbnrNchk86ckTv8cciVVIyQbgz0lN1yAkqjiXc1iZRgGHYmQHXfakFUxk2cXhz00LxgHgAZ4zI9qsqb-1seuuO2Nh2dNbqe9yvTPBGhZ4UI/s1600/FloMurnig_KR_HerrenFinale-6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br />
</a></div>A couple hours later the finalists got introduced on stage and shortly after the first climber was on the wall. The atmosphere was cool, there was a nice crowd watching and cheering, the DJ played some classic austrian country style music which sucked a bit I have to say, but nothing's perfect.... In the final round we had to climb 4 problems in onsight mode, meaning you have 5 minutes time to climb the first problem, 5 minutes rest, then 5 minutes time for the second one, etc.... This means that you better do problems fast or you'll get really pumped, 5 minutes rest is not much!<br />
<br />
The first problem was a tricky slab I think only two climbers were able to do in the end, I wasn't one of them and got shut down there. On the second problem, an overhang with slappy, powerful compression moves of a style I prefer, I hustled arround on my first tries, got high up on my last try when the time run out and I endend up being totally pumped without making it to the top!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmW9ohieQljruZ5tU_UYEjgW5xXcguFVSA2XhrJTPURhcnDkoO9Mvhq18OFMuxbAebCXqsvCr1h3wwit4TJQOYtnKpJLA5apFAnX5iA0EfjcUtVAzcwg6HyEso-1Sbt4waQH4DI72li3U/s1600/FloMurnig_KR_HerrenFinale-10.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmW9ohieQljruZ5tU_UYEjgW5xXcguFVSA2XhrJTPURhcnDkoO9Mvhq18OFMuxbAebCXqsvCr1h3wwit4TJQOYtnKpJLA5apFAnX5iA0EfjcUtVAzcwg6HyEso-1Sbt4waQH4DI72li3U/s320/FloMurnig_KR_HerrenFinale-10.jpg" width="212" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUKZTiZ_WDNDJ0nCTAPb7eOTkyz8EFAoIqxGXQGrmJ5H4FrIlgddr4ULM0LYCc63BH8A5YItkLs9WgKXw-Vqrrywz-gPnsp0_nYez89gkS2a3i0ug8RGRWqU_77bd2IX5hxit_oPK9pBM/s1600/FloMurnig_KR_HerrenFinale-12.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUKZTiZ_WDNDJ0nCTAPb7eOTkyz8EFAoIqxGXQGrmJ5H4FrIlgddr4ULM0LYCc63BH8A5YItkLs9WgKXw-Vqrrywz-gPnsp0_nYez89gkS2a3i0ug8RGRWqU_77bd2IX5hxit_oPK9pBM/s320/FloMurnig_KR_HerrenFinale-12.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzpUAMiMlTR6sulrJzht1LIDffzstL0niGfmS-Mfver8x2dNlW6ZNagKvRSK-PMgElslRyYKL0XHuBf-u8QuDQ_A9dM4-ESzYUOLaO5O7hwEBZo2eLozZAOCRQuaFSjgaD7T0XXGLl23w/s1600/FloMurnig_KR_HerrenFinale-18.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a> <br />
The third problem was amazing: a jump start on two opposing slopers, followed by some big compression (again!) moves to the top. Still tired I just couldn't crush it right away and tried hard my full 5 minutes falling after the bonus hold (a hold up half the climb that counts in the ranking), completely out of juice... No top still.<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzpUAMiMlTR6sulrJzht1LIDffzstL0niGfmS-Mfver8x2dNlW6ZNagKvRSK-PMgElslRyYKL0XHuBf-u8QuDQ_A9dM4-ESzYUOLaO5O7hwEBZo2eLozZAOCRQuaFSjgaD7T0XXGLl23w/s1600/FloMurnig_KR_HerrenFinale-18.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzpUAMiMlTR6sulrJzht1LIDffzstL0niGfmS-Mfver8x2dNlW6ZNagKvRSK-PMgElslRyYKL0XHuBf-u8QuDQ_A9dM4-ESzYUOLaO5O7hwEBZo2eLozZAOCRQuaFSjgaD7T0XXGLl23w/s640/FloMurnig_KR_HerrenFinale-18.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Volume wrestling on problem 4</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<br />
The last problem was the hardest of them all. You had to make your way arround a huge corner to get to the bonus hold and then mantle your way up a chimney to the top. Yet again this bloc was super powerful!! On my best try I was in a good position to go arround the volume but missed a toe - hook that you were supposed to place in order to get to the bonus and fell. This cost me my 5th place I made in the qualifiers and I ended up 7th after finals. Kili (Fischhuber) once again showed his amazing skills and power, flashed the first three problems and won the title! 2nd, 3rd and 4th each did one top.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">How do you do this one?! Curious looks after the last problem.</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<br />
It was a really intense and fun day in Kitzbühel! I am having the harshest muscle-ache in quite a while as I type this... one hell of a compression work-out it was!! A good thing to make use of on some projects of the same style on rock that I have in mind, so stay tuned!<br />
<br />
Just gotta do some streching now to hopefully get outa bed in a smoother manner tomorrow than I did today...<br />
<br />
<i>Emi</i><br />
<br />
Pics by <b>Flo Murnig</b>, www.dynamo.atEmihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05894702583512613454noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1264413589131959513.post-50207945053342517492012-01-09T17:22:00.001+01:002012-01-09T17:22:37.257+01:00La ProueJust got back from a short trip to ticino right after new year. I hadn't been down there in quite a while so I was very excited to climb on good old swiss gneiss once again! As some snow dropped down at the higher spots the days before we arrived the desicion was made to climb at Cresciano. We got there in the afternoon and just climbed around randomly, enjoying the rock and the forest and meeting people I hadn't seen in a while...<br />
<br />
The following day we went all the way over to the La Boule sector as I was keen to get on "La Proue". It's a short and powerful line established by Fred Nicole in the late 90's of the past century, classic and quite technical, around 8B. I had randomly tried it every once in a while over the past years but with little success... I kinda expected it to be the same this time but to my suprise I felt stronger on it. I stuck the crux move for the first time that day and fell off on the next one because I kinda had no clue what to do after... So the plan was to rest one day, return back, warm up, then first do the upper part isolated to get the beta and then start from the bottom again.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXjhblXXugBaytd37YofAUkCWlF1WzK_-NUl49qK8qEzkhKUKy36whFZLJlwcxoe_cqyiyNCUghs51ZdbieEuR9aPJMSDs_vFfXHRdmEzfV9d35Uo8dSuSNdPoldRl3mvhEfEXTqhhQ2I/s1600/la+proue.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXjhblXXugBaytd37YofAUkCWlF1WzK_-NUl49qK8qEzkhKUKy36whFZLJlwcxoe_cqyiyNCUghs51ZdbieEuR9aPJMSDs_vFfXHRdmEzfV9d35Uo8dSuSNdPoldRl3mvhEfEXTqhhQ2I/s1600/la+proue.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The crux Move, pic by Korni Obleitner</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
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Being a lazy b**ch and full of confidence on my return two days later I thought it for sure will go without sticking to the plan. So again, I stuck the crux move perfectly and yes, again I punted somehow and fell off. I did try the upper moves after that, figured out the foot-moves which are the tricky part but the power was gone and I couldn't get up there anymore... Idiot.<br />
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The following day was my last chance. It was sunnier and warmer as the days before and the tries didn't feel good, I was pretty sore as well from the day before. I made a long rest until 30 minutes before it got dark and started my last set of tries, already making up plans in my mind of returning the next weekend because I didn't feel like it would go anymore today. So I set off with no expectations and everything clicked, some surprised and adrenalized roars later I stood atop of the boulder... happy and with a big smile on my face that didn't go away the whole drive back to Innsbruck.... <br />
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Video below!<br />
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<i>Emi</i><br />
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<div style="text-align: center;"><object height="366" width="650"><param name="allowfullscreen" value="true" /><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always" /><param name="movie" value="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=34776289&server=vimeo.com&show_title=0&show_byline=0&show_portrait=0&color=00adef&fullscreen=1&autoplay=0&loop=0" /><embed src="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=34776289&server=vimeo.com&show_title=0&show_byline=0&show_portrait=0&color=00adef&fullscreen=1&autoplay=0&loop=0" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowscriptaccess="always" width="650" height="366"></embed></object></div>Emihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05894702583512613454noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1264413589131959513.post-82076104883682078982011-11-19T18:57:00.002+01:002011-11-20T11:48:03.725+01:00The Love(story) 2.0Love 2.0 is a sportroute located in the Zillertal Valley in Austria. It's background isn't the typical "found line-bolted it-climbed it" one, it has a different story to tell...<br />
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In the mid 80's of the past century, Gerhard Hörhager, austrian sportclimbing pioneer and living legend, bolted a line going through the middle of the north face of the "Wächter" bloc at a crag called Ewige Jagdgründe. As the wall was totally blank he drilled some holds, wich was a common thing to do back then, and climbed the route, calling it "Hounts of Love", 8a.<br />
Years later in 2007 he returned to take out the bolts and close the holds with sika because he saw the potential for a natural line starting further left. New bolts were set, Kilian Fischhuber was called up to the set and he soon after did the FA of the new all natural climb, they called it "Love 2.0" and it's grade is 8c.<br />
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The route isn't just natural, it's simply amazing. A crimpy and bouldery beginning leads into steeper terrain, the holds get slightly better, the feet remain of their allmost non-existent character. This creates a series of brutal lock off gaston moves on full body tension, where at any time you feel like you will fall out of the wall within the next moment... It's pretty dam hard, even Adam (Ondra) needed like 3 tries! ;D<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigavvcO3x6KlTovk1-AphaUY2YXMckVU2vPmbhnj8xhP8EYvdTIcPqSL7guRrSJx_yj9929PUqf9SrNz74lJhtYcwMx4VKKtmkPVQDgSy654MZ7XEe84pnFAqZO_EHI2xO0-OADzuU2ic/s1600/Love+2.0+%25281%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigavvcO3x6KlTovk1-AphaUY2YXMckVU2vPmbhnj8xhP8EYvdTIcPqSL7guRrSJx_yj9929PUqf9SrNz74lJhtYcwMx4VKKtmkPVQDgSy654MZ7XEe84pnFAqZO_EHI2xO0-OADzuU2ic/s1600/Love+2.0+%25281%2529.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pic by Norbert Lanzanasto</td></tr>
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I started to try the route in spring 2011 and got fascinated by the challenge it offered me: small crimps with s**t footholds all the way isn't exactly what I would call my speciality! But for sure something I want to get better on so I got motivated to work on it.<br />
As I had solved he individual moves quickly, dreams of a successful redpoint emerged on a very early stage... But every time I went back thinking I would sure do it this time I returned home empty handed... Spring didn't offer the best temps but still I thought it could go... Negative, greasy fingertips on redpoint links and constant falling convinced me to wait for fall.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1gDyK_0UCQikeejyt0NmSgjRwjiBTYfDgkU4V9KGMs4nvqbPqLqhJFEJDl0LCQQbOsYcQSTCXVsfqtxbqP_1IOmQ5xMUlhADUBNVR6gHJ8lJKUyMzmCaV3fPdT2xT9QIO6Fi6S50uN4g/s1600/Love+2.0+%25283%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1gDyK_0UCQikeejyt0NmSgjRwjiBTYfDgkU4V9KGMs4nvqbPqLqhJFEJDl0LCQQbOsYcQSTCXVsfqtxbqP_1IOmQ5xMUlhADUBNVR6gHJ8lJKUyMzmCaV3fPdT2xT9QIO6Fi6S50uN4g/s1600/Love+2.0+%25283%2529.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pic by Norbert Lanzanasto</td></tr>
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By the end of September I was back. Temps were way cooler and I got psyched again! After some more sessions on it and redefining my beta on a crucial clipping position for like five times I finally made it through the first and hardest part on my last attempt of the day and found myself at the o.k. rest halfway up the route, defenitly more pumped then I expected to arrive there.... "keep cool, keep cool, don't you f**k it up now, you climbed out from here so many times, relax, keep cool, don't punt!" - I kept thinking. I climbed on, numb hands and a bit shaky but felt good on the moves and arrived at the big ledge almost at the top, just a couple more easy moves and it will be done! I took my time, warmed up my fingers and then went for the anchors.... Success!! My first 8c in the bag... <br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCElTqRuasYqdSLvSwXnbbCrIq7PUtvH6LSqYQjDvByFsZw5otnG6FERBF1aegZ7v0xezUQ07HU4kkP6QNb8p_AYROoPZpuJhAzJueHpd-wDn33LtCtbvyyusr33wPmcgez4kk2RY3FsI/s1600/Love+2.0+%25284%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCElTqRuasYqdSLvSwXnbbCrIq7PUtvH6LSqYQjDvByFsZw5otnG6FERBF1aegZ7v0xezUQ07HU4kkP6QNb8p_AYROoPZpuJhAzJueHpd-wDn33LtCtbvyyusr33wPmcgez4kk2RY3FsI/s1600/Love+2.0+%25284%2529.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pic by Norbert Lanzanasto</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
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In the end all the work I had put in paid off and I learned a lot as a climber going through the process. For me, projecting a sportroute at my limit is defenitly different than doing the same on a boulderproblem... It's more about patience, optimizing beta over and over again and to not force things but stay positive and relaxed all the time... It makes you climb better.<br />
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Psyched for the next one!<br />
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Video of the ascent below, enjoy!<br />
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Emi<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;"><object height="366" width="650"><param name="allowfullscreen" value="true" /><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always" /><param name="movie" value="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=32330912&server=vimeo.com&show_title=0&show_byline=0&show_portrait=0&color=00adef&fullscreen=1&autoplay=0&loop=0" /><embed src="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=32330912&server=vimeo.com&show_title=0&show_byline=0&show_portrait=0&color=00adef&fullscreen=1&autoplay=0&loop=0" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowscriptaccess="always" width="650" height="366"></embed></object></div>Emihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05894702583512613454noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1264413589131959513.post-71723844681436977092011-09-07T20:28:00.048+02:002013-12-27T21:28:24.356+01:00Kalymnian Summer<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi76K7XAErW8X5dHRwk-x4BFVlxaZSxZPAMntOjCrFZ0pXIr24E-8Eea9_T9uN4yj0slzhCrfN7gCwdLzrGSnBpxjrCnGTONsIvz5Oh6Guqo3Xhzw8iGqJS7YnZJwbDkVQ9mInl4hanRt8/s1600/_DSC4243.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi76K7XAErW8X5dHRwk-x4BFVlxaZSxZPAMntOjCrFZ0pXIr24E-8Eea9_T9uN4yj0slzhCrfN7gCwdLzrGSnBpxjrCnGTONsIvz5Oh6Guqo3Xhzw8iGqJS7YnZJwbDkVQ9mInl4hanRt8/s1600/_DSC4243.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi76K7XAErW8X5dHRwk-x4BFVlxaZSxZPAMntOjCrFZ0pXIr24E-8Eea9_T9uN4yj0slzhCrfN7gCwdLzrGSnBpxjrCnGTONsIvz5Oh6Guqo3Xhzw8iGqJS7YnZJwbDkVQ9mInl4hanRt8/s1600/_DSC4243.jpg" /></a><span lang="EN-GB"> </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">The potential for climbing on the greek </span><span lang="EN-GB">island</span><span lang="EN-GB"> of </span><span lang="EN-GB">Kalymnos</span><span lang="EN-GB"> was discovered by the end of the past century and since then it rapidly turned into one of the best and original spots for sport climbing on the planet, with more than 2000 bolted routes to date. With many friends of mine having been there and telling me such great stories of how beautiful and unique their trip was, it was only a matter of time until I decided to have a look by myself. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">Despite the best season for climbing in Kalymnos is either spring or fall, our decision was to go in summer. The conditions for climbing would be on the warmer (boiling) side, but chilling at the beach would be prime! More of a holiday and perfect to have a glance on the climbing there.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">So my girl and I booked a two week trip and psyche was high, I got me a nice 80 meter rope, lots of quickdraws and extention-slings, sunscreen lotion - I was ready to do some kalymnian monster - routes!</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">We arrived at Masouri, the place to stay as a climber, and first got ourselves one of <a href="http://www.bike-rental.gr/">Eric`s</a> scooters at <a href="http://www.bike-rental.gr/">Best Moto</a>. His scooters will let you shine on every steep road and besides he and his wife Irma gave us so much information and tips for what to do and where to go on the island... not to forget "Best Moto beer-time" everyday at 8pm and the BBQ... thanks a lot guys!! Once mobile, we headed straight to one of the biggest cliffs of the island, the Grande Grotta. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">Well... it's huge! Just looking at it I felt pumped already and looking up to the pitches first was really intimidating: all you see is a forest of tufas and stalactites and no ending... but the climbing looked more than fun! I had a good first day on sighting some classics there, such as the "Priapos", a 35 meter 7c with literally just jugs and good rests all the way but it's so steep and confusing with all the stalactites that I got pretty pumped. And taking out the quickdraws is even harder than climbing the route....</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6dtNr8EaDMzGnA5WwAu30GUmlP3dbfi-oHVAOvU_iBeMOsNn2ctfuWF_fB7e7hEBjKH1fpKQqkSIytiBMVODo7Vvjcjrrq6nCqdG2cjgyr9UW7Onybt10w52_s2nmTjJl0UA-rktIwig/s1600/grande+grotta+overview.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6dtNr8EaDMzGnA5WwAu30GUmlP3dbfi-oHVAOvU_iBeMOsNn2ctfuWF_fB7e7hEBjKH1fpKQqkSIytiBMVODo7Vvjcjrrq6nCqdG2cjgyr9UW7Onybt10w52_s2nmTjJl0UA-rktIwig/s1600/grande+grotta+overview.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Grande Grotta</td></tr>
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</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">After the first day we were infected. Our days consisted of getting up early in the morning for breakfast on the terrace with a beautiful view on the neighbouring island Telendos, climbing on a bad ass cliff afterwords and hanging out at a bad ass beach in the afternoon just to round up the day with some nice Greek food...</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">One of the more outstanding days we had at </span><span lang="EN-GB">Sikati</span><span lang="EN-GB"> </span><span lang="EN-GB">Cave</span><span lang="EN-GB">. This incredible phenomenon of nature is a giant amphitheatre - like cave stamped into a hillside just above a beautiful beach. At first you have to hike there for about 40 minutes but your efforts will pay more than off: you lower down into this giant pot to find yourself surrounded by some of the craziest and longest routes I've ever seen! </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJJOA1PDP_dcBO7pjs2G_UDmhembCTFnWhuHO84qVa7CkveFbpFa-8AwFEYExK1WK9LYPXTVNUprR5h7lFvjVHi0tvCAUdiOg39YbReIDd3ZtFEg_62oUys3wLu2CsUaqiIiEtkIXR3lQ/s1600/sikati+cave.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJJOA1PDP_dcBO7pjs2G_UDmhembCTFnWhuHO84qVa7CkveFbpFa-8AwFEYExK1WK9LYPXTVNUprR5h7lFvjVHi0tvCAUdiOg39YbReIDd3ZtFEg_62oUys3wLu2CsUaqiIiEtkIXR3lQ/s1600/sikati+cave.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Approaching Sikati Cave</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB"> </span><span lang="EN-GB">At the highest point the walls are about 70 meters high and there are routes up to that point! Basically my 80m rope was worthless if I had wanted to go for the real deal, so I did the "shorter" ones: first warming up on a 30 meters 7b, "Mort aux Chevres", incredible, then moving on to on sight "Morgan Adam" 7c+, 35 meters, even better. After that I thought it was time to test myself on an on sight attempt of one of the bigger ones, the 45 meter route "Super Lolita" 8a. </span> </div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">It was more like an expedition! About 20 quickdraws, most of them doubled and two long slings to get control over the ropedrag. I started climbing and it seemed endless... Every time I climbed up around an overhang I was facing the next one. It took me 40 minutes to get that route done on sight and about 20 to get the gear out... I was worked. Completely out of steam. But satisfied!</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">We went down to the Sikati beach to chill and swim and then hiked out. A perfect day...</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFLtxh1BzcwPUwu3iIrd6RCS9lW0WQRIQRBgU6h_l55T3DZB38E3nk-XCdeaUObWw_diKnV9rfUgAVApgv63npGQWvAoRf6Xq1I6DIri1MRepJAHLdI5-ZjeFOBsGchIPyVZd1yaFaUks/s1600/_DSC4295.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFLtxh1BzcwPUwu3iIrd6RCS9lW0WQRIQRBgU6h_l55T3DZB38E3nk-XCdeaUObWw_diKnV9rfUgAVApgv63npGQWvAoRf6Xq1I6DIri1MRepJAHLdI5-ZjeFOBsGchIPyVZd1yaFaUks/s1600/_DSC4295.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sikati beach</td></tr>
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</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">Another epitome for climbing in Kalymnos is the 40 meter roof "Fun de Chichunne" 8a in the Grande Grotta. First eye contact was made on our very first climbing day and after gaining confidence at Sikati I felt ready to give it a on sight burn... The climbing on it is so much fun!! Just imagine 40 meters in a roof full of giant tufas, blobs and stalactites... the best tactic for me seemed to always eye for the next big stalactite that looked like I could sit on it and race to it. I worked my way through that endless roof and clipped the chains with a big smile on my face that stayed for quite long that day. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">Back in </span><span lang="EN-GB">Innsbruck</span><span lang="EN-GB"> now I can't wait to return. What I saw and climbed there was just the tip of the iceberg and if I imagine those cool and windy conditions at other times of the year... I will be back!</span><br />
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<span lang="EN-GB">Check out the gallery below for more pics of our trip. </span></div><br />
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<object height="900" width="760"><param name="Movie" value="https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/2917376/viewer.swf"><param name="Flashvars" value="xmlDataPath=https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/2917376/kalymnos%202011%20gallery/kalymnos%202011%20gallery.xml"><param name="bgcolor" value="#413729"><embed src="https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/2917376/viewer.swf" flashvars="xmlDataPath=https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/2917376/kalymnos%202011%20gallery/kalymnos%202011%20gallery.xml" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" bgcolor="#413729" height="900" width="760"></embed></object>Emihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05894702583512613454noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1264413589131959513.post-20052791665832581352011-06-18T14:54:00.000+02:002011-06-18T14:54:41.063+02:002011 - changing the game<div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Regarding my climbing, this year so far has been completely different than the 7 or 8 years before.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Coming home from my trip to Hueco this winter and having had a really amazing and intense time bouldering once more, at the same time I felt like it was time for a change. After so many years of just bouldering and mostly leaving all other types of our sport, like routes, trad or alpine, out of my schedule I simply thought it would be a really interesting and fun challenge to change my game and do something different, not just blocs. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">As it was winter I went to the gym and did routes. </span><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Lot</span><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">'s of routes, for weeks... My main goal doing that was to get fit for the rock in spring. The amount of great hard sport routes in the local </span><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Zillertal</span><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"> </span><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Valley</span><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"> is insane and, in terms of quality and quantity, lies above the bouldering there in my opinion. After getting better and better in the gym I decided to take part in a Lead National comp in my origin home town in western </span><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Austria</span><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">. Visiting the parents and doing a comp with quiet the best fitness in years seemed like a good combination worth the effort!</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">The comp was real fun and went well, the next one of the series was at a close location too, so hey, why not go there as well?!? It turned out all of the four stations of the national Circus were pretty close to </span><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Innsbruck</span><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"> so in the end I took part in all of them! </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">The Austrian Cup circus basically is there to determine who enters the National Team besides the Pros (currently the two ballers Jakob Schubert and Mario Lechner who don't take part in it). And beeing such a busy bee doing all of them and with good results I ended up 3rd overall in the mens category, oh yeah :D</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">The rock climbing was a bit more epic since the mass of rainy or hot days this spring is messing up lots of redpoint tries on projects with long no-chalking-sections and small crimps. Guess what, it's raining as I write this. Oh well they won't run away and cooler temps will come sooner or later, until then it's good practise. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">So the status of this crazy, all so different and fun year is, that I am nominated to enter the IFSC World Championships in Arco this July, starting in all Categories, bouldering, lead and speed! And that's because I got 3rd at the speed comp at the last station of the Nationals... off the couch... </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">What's next, 2011?????? Can't wait to find out!</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrZFuoW7c0959Mtn9ZwcOLKpQFSMzVojQ8STG4teX7W1hr5hyphenhyphen5yTNcPwkkTh23H_Jxr_yHwLQcxfQdwZIoQlcYUDxlszodMXqYHQ3_bMq13XYgr2kTMRz78CHdRlQ4cv7PK1fVwLfWK54/s1600/bwc+wien.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrZFuoW7c0959Mtn9ZwcOLKpQFSMzVojQ8STG4teX7W1hr5hyphenhyphen5yTNcPwkkTh23H_Jxr_yHwLQcxfQdwZIoQlcYUDxlszodMXqYHQ3_bMq13XYgr2kTMRz78CHdRlQ4cv7PK1fVwLfWK54/s1600/bwc+wien.jpg" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div>Emihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05894702583512613454noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1264413589131959513.post-20167119271167757482011-05-20T15:19:00.000+02:002011-05-20T15:19:49.782+02:00The MOON Board is online!The Moon Board concept is a really simple but powerful idea that allows climbers all over the World to set identical problems and test themselves! Once your Moon Board is built, you can arrange the holds to replicate any number of problems listed on the Moon Board website. There are problems of all grades listed and you can also download a very easy description of how to build your own Moon Board.<br />
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So if you have a garage, a big porch or simply charge grandpa's garden hut then go for it, build your original Sheffield's school room inspired training facility!<br />
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<a href="http://www.moonclimbing.com/moonboard-c-421.html">MOON Board website</a><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6hJ4DfSMq8INQ78KpbUlF61Ppj9VFtj_HHAGbRrFZniyQ_Ag7jsN_9l9OHF2sIWQiKMtkxplyZlODGTI_q6M0vX1whPfGUUUiCCJhaYPBLzR9KGYhryZ3Oee03amvn9PnPogupeklGmY/s1600/moon+board.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6hJ4DfSMq8INQ78KpbUlF61Ppj9VFtj_HHAGbRrFZniyQ_Ag7jsN_9l9OHF2sIWQiKMtkxplyZlODGTI_q6M0vX1whPfGUUUiCCJhaYPBLzR9KGYhryZ3Oee03amvn9PnPogupeklGmY/s640/moon+board.jpg" width="428" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ7MXitHY8SN0Wj9dBCEHg9ZvriQPBFepSchCvIJ4e9UBoD-IPskUWD8MfMtLbppMtU6aWRMmWwHnsHg6uT1MkjI7qE32rexBtYfyqzil9ntEMqE3sLMC4pRtDAjOjTbRo8GGfnYOgalk/s1600/moon+board_2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ7MXitHY8SN0Wj9dBCEHg9ZvriQPBFepSchCvIJ4e9UBoD-IPskUWD8MfMtLbppMtU6aWRMmWwHnsHg6uT1MkjI7qE32rexBtYfyqzil9ntEMqE3sLMC4pRtDAjOjTbRo8GGfnYOgalk/s640/moon+board_2.jpg" width="431" /></a></div>Emihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05894702583512613454noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1264413589131959513.post-17589913789933636852011-04-06T22:50:00.003+02:002011-04-06T22:51:33.336+02:00Hueco Flash Back - Movie by Flo MurnigIt's on! Flo Murnig's Film of our Hueco Trip! Enjoy!<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;"><object height="485" width="650"><param name="allowfullscreen" value="true" /><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always" /><param name="movie" value="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=21922038&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=1&color=00ADEF&fullscreen=1&autoplay=0&loop=0" /><embed src="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=21922038&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=1&color=00ADEF&fullscreen=1&autoplay=0&loop=0" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowscriptaccess="always" width="650" height="485"></embed></object></div><a href="http://vimeo.com/21922038">Climax.tv Issue #6 - Flash Back Hueco Tanks</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/flomurnig">Flo Murnig</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.Emihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05894702583512613454noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1264413589131959513.post-74143488203483690902011-04-05T08:25:00.001+02:002011-04-05T08:29:25.446+02:00MOON InterviewsLots of inspiring short interviews of the whole new team can be found on the <a href="http://www.moonclimbing.com/Moon-Climbers-c-368.html">MOON</a> website, check it out!<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcGZoI4sVrUbLypo_5sWKA52VHXIbq-Ze-uCNSXACxoZAOlbk64GVGxcOMvtazK-p-ATbS-ZAxCFKH_T688GNEx70FHFbR6_y3ojj5qCQEVly4ASE6GoZB7SRWw5WNjO-U7uzQvH0rfdE/s1600/moon+website.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcGZoI4sVrUbLypo_5sWKA52VHXIbq-Ze-uCNSXACxoZAOlbk64GVGxcOMvtazK-p-ATbS-ZAxCFKH_T688GNEx70FHFbR6_y3ojj5qCQEVly4ASE6GoZB7SRWw5WNjO-U7uzQvH0rfdE/s640/moon+website.jpg" width="630" /></a></div>Emihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05894702583512613454noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1264413589131959513.post-77747526067491429292011-04-01T09:50:00.002+02:002011-04-01T09:54:30.672+02:00Hueco Flick<div style="text-align: left;">Better late than never... :) here comes a little combo of some boulders I had the joy to climb on in Hueco Tanks at the beginning of this year. Filmed by my mates Flo Murnig (<a href="http://www.dynamo.at/">dynamo.at</a>) and Ingo Filzwieser who were there with me. To watch it in HD you have to play it on vimeo. Flo filmed a shit ton of stuff and made a proper movie of it wich will be shown on the <a href="http://www.climax.dynamo.at/2011/03/21/climax-release-party/">Climax release party</a> on April 2nd 2011 in Vienna, Austria. I think he will be putting it onto vimeo as well after, I will let you know, should be a crazy movie!</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: left;">Alright, singing off, been doing a lot of training since the trip, mostly routes and now I have to pack up my shit and get ready for a lead comp (thats right, l-e-a-d!!) tomorrow... sorry my dear forearms, but you are about to face enormous pain in the near future. :D</div><div style="text-align: left;"></div><div style="text-align: left;">Enjoy climbing and take care,</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
<i>Emi</i></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"><iframe frameborder="0" height="485" src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/21774428" width="650"></iframe></div><a href="http://vimeo.com/21774428">hueco tanks 2010|2011</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user2444807">emi-moosburger.blogspot.com</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.<br />
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.Emihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05894702583512613454noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1264413589131959513.post-67537917373080926152011-01-18T19:01:00.002+01:002011-01-19T23:10:52.129+01:00Hueco #3Well, it's over again and I am back in Austria as I write this. The last days of our trip have been really epic, lot's of bouldering here and there, snowstorms and icy temps at night... it's all there! Good times for sure.<br />
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The climbing days went past really fast and everybody of our crew had sort of a cold once at least so before we knew it the last two climbing days were on the schedule. Day number one was supposed to be our last day climbing on North Mountain. Time to get things done there. For me that ment to get on "Bleeding Brothers", a stiff V12 that climbs out of a cave. The climbing is desperate. Big ass moves, crazy toehooks and heelhooks and compression... Working on the problem on two sessions before it was fun to solve my own beta puzzle and try to link the sequences, wich is the hardest to do on this climb because on the link you have to hold a really slopy bad pocket for your right hand three moves in a row. Each move individually isn't too bad but when you ad them together... you better make sure you hit that hold hard!<br />
I warmed up and felt good. First try I fell two moves before the end. Minutes later I got shut down on the very last hard move because that slopy right hand popped out in the last moment!! Damn! Not only I got super close I also sliced my left hand on the big undercling Hueco that try, blood everywhere... I got real pissed. And that for sure helped in this case. I taped the flapper as good as I could, rested and got really really psyched to take my revenge. I pulled on and forced my way out of the cave very confident and fast. Arriving at the last two crux moves this time I felt positioned well and was perfectly set up. My left hand went for the crimp on the lip, both the toehook and the heelhook stayed and I bounced again lefthand for the lip, stuck it and topped out. What a relief! It's one of those blocs that make this place really unique for me, the climbing is just so crazy!!<br />
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The next day was our last and we decided to go to West Mountain because we hadn't been there before and just wanted to climb a lot on boulders that are new to us. We had a nice crew, Me, Ingo, Ida and J-Fred from Norway, Joe and two spanish climbers, Kevin was our guide. We warmed up on some really good easy climbs and then went over to Best of the West V7, one of Hueco's most famous blocs. It really was what everyone promised it to be: fantastic. Crazy holds, big moves... perfect!<br />
After that I set eyes on another mega classic: The Feather V11. I first saw a picture of this bloc in some french climbing mag when I was a kid and since then wanted to climb on it. As I was pretty low on energy resulting from 4 weeks of bouldering and sleeping in the cold I had to act a bit tactically in order to succeed. I started to try the upper part wich is a bit tricky with a brutal knee bar and a lot of possibilities for you feet. The start just looked physical and I thought I'd have the right motivation to do it once I solved the upper part. Wich happened pretty soon, I found my way to do the kneebar section, rested and sat down at the start. Kevin gave me some beta for the start and I pulled of the floor. You have to do a hard gaston move out of your left hand to get into the stand start and surprisingly I did that one right away! I hussled a bit after it because I didn't know how to walk my feet into the kneebar but kept it together and climbed to the top, realizing a bit of a childhood dream, unexpected, on the final day of our trip... I was more than happy!<br />
Not enough yet we went back down and over to Best of the Best V9. It's a long climb (about 20 moves) and after I found my beta for the crux sequence I somehow ran through it, totally pumped, with my arms cramping on the last V2 moves and the mantle... Time to go home!<br />
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Looking back we had and amazing time with many many nice people and friends we made and we can't wait to return some day, hopefully soon!<br />
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Check out all the galleries for Fotos of our trip!! We also filmed pretty much everything on HD so stay tuned for some clips soon!!!<br />
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take care,<br />
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<i>Emi</i>Emihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05894702583512613454noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1264413589131959513.post-31276314382667462932010-12-29T20:37:00.001+01:002010-12-29T20:41:39.507+01:00Hueco #2Life here in Hueco Tanks is getting more relaxing every day. We get up in the mornings and start off the days with a long breakfast in the sun, chilling on the pads, have some coffee... Then it's climbing all day long with burritos after it - perfect!<br />
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We checked out a lot of problems all over North Mountain and everybody kinda found his projects and favourite lines... One problem I really wanted to get on was Diaphanous Sea, V12. It's such a cool, pure line, the holds and moves are very very nice and hard to find on a rock climb just like that. I got on it once three years ago but couldn't do any of the moves back then. It's style of climbing is pretty basic: pulling on crimps in a roof. I kinda have a hard time on climbs of this character... coming back stronger and more confident this time I knew that it still will be challenging for sure. This time I first got on it at the end of day on North Mountain, tired and little skin left and to my surprise did all the moves on that first session! So I rested for two days, grew some skin and came back with high expectations on climbing the boulder. But no, I was to shaky that day and always fell on the big crux move where you throw your right hand to the big flake. Also my fingers and tendons started to hurt really bad after a few goes... frustrated I had to call it a day and leave. I was able to finish off the day by doing the amazing Dirty Martini on the Rocks V11 in a few goes wich was nice at least!<br />
I decided to wait some days for when the weather forecast finally pronounced cooler temps (it still has been really really hot!) and climb on other stuff in the meantime. But I couldn't really stick to that plan and so I found myself back on Diaphanous Sea two days later at the end of a long day on North Mountain. But it was windy and overcast, temps were good and so I decided to give it a try or two.<br />
After the burning sensation in my fingertips, caused by a horrible warm up go, disappeared I sat down again and pulled off the floor. And with no expectations or anything else on my mind I simply climbed better on it, stuck the big move perfectly and with surprising ease and moments later stood atop of the boulder... my skin was fried big time but I was just so psyched to have done this super classic line. Lifetime ticklist - check! :D<br />
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We are now in the second half of our trip and starting to feel better every day. Skin is getting thick and we are all psyched to get on tours now and explore more of the beautiful climbing this place has to offer.<br />
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<i>Emi</i> <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglJlenmCf0mH4w36Il3aUIowXVv-jMT6qIwx0QT4bd9s49kiZ4ZWsOgE7q_CdLXyoYSGY-o8kUf3df6aClRcMOZYKC7G_y7LU2-CCohF3dh-fRUuhiHeRPhVYLJ_VsGlaIhax6cDyNIZk/s1600/diaphanous.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglJlenmCf0mH4w36Il3aUIowXVv-jMT6qIwx0QT4bd9s49kiZ4ZWsOgE7q_CdLXyoYSGY-o8kUf3df6aClRcMOZYKC7G_y7LU2-CCohF3dh-fRUuhiHeRPhVYLJ_VsGlaIhax6cDyNIZk/s320/diaphanous.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Diaphanous Sea... pic by Flo</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNu_G_U0POsWO48oPFJIWUMZvI64FJQQrO63bmomfN7aLwk3IwuYrHH1OmwAPXjreZ5hIGi9R_OVr01O3Ts4QT6QaDab9po4xhpxGI1gAlxoAJZ3Lec8ZttZazahjJqL1PIirDZ5iB15I/s1600/dirti+martini+on+the+rocks.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNu_G_U0POsWO48oPFJIWUMZvI64FJQQrO63bmomfN7aLwk3IwuYrHH1OmwAPXjreZ5hIGi9R_OVr01O3Ts4QT6QaDab9po4xhpxGI1gAlxoAJZ3Lec8ZttZazahjJqL1PIirDZ5iB15I/s320/dirti+martini+on+the+rocks.jpg" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dirti Martini... pic by Ingo</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUWxvLXl2I8rCxJRWlmSoDkXBNMxF9p_bPoc_mPcB8UELzepEYh7EfENYA1A1NoXnNEvT2HlYbHq7r9IW00m9ExHsSY2sL4-iV5rIBh7BGcqPDGkGNF-zB3yOhxuNoluBXra3bz6aEP5M/s1600/flo+theatre.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUWxvLXl2I8rCxJRWlmSoDkXBNMxF9p_bPoc_mPcB8UELzepEYh7EfENYA1A1NoXnNEvT2HlYbHq7r9IW00m9ExHsSY2sL4-iV5rIBh7BGcqPDGkGNF-zB3yOhxuNoluBXra3bz6aEP5M/s320/flo+theatre.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Flo sending Theater of the Absurd</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVvvmmEIS8gmZB9TUbMwP0U0DkBwcKcL9gYiLgfiz2tENRrcF_adKp0UCps2OJqyLAzWVhNwBHLKHbeUPZJj16bCMkwgkAAgVD2k75jjQpzPK7YrxLe4gLvOs_Az4aAg0rQyPg1DYD5PM/s1600/ingo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVvvmmEIS8gmZB9TUbMwP0U0DkBwcKcL9gYiLgfiz2tENRrcF_adKp0UCps2OJqyLAzWVhNwBHLKHbeUPZJj16bCMkwgkAAgVD2k75jjQpzPK7YrxLe4gLvOs_Az4aAg0rQyPg1DYD5PM/s320/ingo.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ingo</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOAfPfaNnfV1tHO_fLNnxRUL2Wpta1oS96nhl5MpsAh8nlRyyYcO-2zM3rUvJT2YHBJHriXCLn3c_V8G99Du62rVWnnBUFQmwRGQ8mVJGKPkzQ52MfDSgAZRVjkYgcEBaqlHTO68zCNFk/s1600/kaiserschmarren.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOAfPfaNnfV1tHO_fLNnxRUL2Wpta1oS96nhl5MpsAh8nlRyyYcO-2zM3rUvJT2YHBJHriXCLn3c_V8G99Du62rVWnnBUFQmwRGQ8mVJGKPkzQ52MfDSgAZRVjkYgcEBaqlHTO68zCNFk/s320/kaiserschmarren.jpg" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Joe enjoying some austrian Kaiserschmarren!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhph1omhR9Peb5W7SUlgx_lc8MmhrvSkKFM6YprXOHfTViH7iQXamCcOwxIUOmQxEfS4G6dDA7mwo0790ISBTJKQgEVCcfM3-LEdakG2-_RqhQrcsxSj7sPYNnqKipzPbcDsTmw2Jbwa1w/s1600/the+dudes.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhph1omhR9Peb5W7SUlgx_lc8MmhrvSkKFM6YprXOHfTViH7iQXamCcOwxIUOmQxEfS4G6dDA7mwo0790ISBTJKQgEVCcfM3-LEdakG2-_RqhQrcsxSj7sPYNnqKipzPbcDsTmw2Jbwa1w/s320/the+dudes.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the dudes</td></tr>
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</i></div>Emihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05894702583512613454noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1264413589131959513.post-67130566036567503672010-12-18T21:19:00.001+01:002010-12-18T21:27:12.236+01:00Hueco<title></title> <style type="text/css">
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<div class="p1"><span class="s1">I am in Hueco Tanks! Finally after a long long while back on the road, traveling, with all your focus and life revolving arround climbing... as it should be. I got here with two friends (Ingo and Flo) a week ago and we will be in the States for another 3 weeks, mainly here in Hueco.</span></div><div class="p1"><span class="s1">Taking off in Munich, Germany, we left snowstorms and cold weather behind, just to arrive in El Paso twenty hours later, with nothing but blue skies all day long, every day... Psyched out of our minds we had three straight days of climbing on North Mountain right away. I have been here once before about three years ago so I already knew a lot of the problems and showed my mates arround. Still down from the jetlag (bouldering at like 4 o‘clock in the morning feels more than strange...) we kept it mellow, did a lot of moderate climbing, some classics like „Babyface“ or „See Spot Run“ and just enjoyed the mass of rock and climbs arround us. After months of gym-climbing or sessions outdoor with shit and cold weather it felt like paradise to move on those rocks...</span></div><div class="p1"><span class="s1">After those first three days it was time to rest, get over the jetlag, grow some skin and enjoy the fabolous city of El Paso, Texas... :D</span></div><div class="p1"><span class="s1">Two days later we where back on North Mountain. I had some unfinished business from the last trip, a problem called „Barefoot on sacred ground“ V12 didn‘t let me up back then and I was keen to get back on it. I goes up the Arete next to „See Spot Run“ and the climbing revolves arround compression moves on slopers and pockets. First though I wanted to get on „Dark Age“, a V11 that combines the two problems named above. I had figured out the moves before and so I decided to go straight from the start. I moved through the problem smooth and confident and the climbing felt amazing! Friction and skin where good and I got to the top feeling very comfortable all the time, finally the jetlag seemed to be over and I was starting to climb. Back down I did the final two crux moves of „Barefoot...“ again to get that tricky and high heel hook dialed, rested for a while and sat down at the start and set off. Feeling kinda nervous on the first moves I soon got my mind in the bubble and was up at the crux. I placed that high heelhook, pulled on, it stayed and before I knew I was at the big finishing Hueco. I made a big move to the right to get into „See Spot Run“ and toped out.</span></div><div class="p1"><span class="s1">It felt really great to expirience progression over the years. Something that once felt hard for me just went down really controlled... Very satisfying!</span></div><div class="p2"><span class="s1"></span></div><div class="p1"><span class="s1">The trip is on, psyched for more days of climbing and shooting fotos, tacos and burritos, meeting knew people, chilling and feeling the flow.</span></div><div class="p1"><br />
</div><div class="p2"><span class="s1"></span></div><div class="p1"><span class="s1">Emi </span></div><div class="p1"><span class="s1"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbIakbQ43nZfuMT3fvykQHbcysTIvuZbdKg-yJhAn0XZ2y4wVnBeP9RsXJ4gUQ46T52aO-1H4aeeZ2TgOUHV-MVy0IXlyIaILmN_p2huwPea9Rlf629SWW9NT-uKT4d08HZh6mDh0873o/s1600/_DSC6895.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbIakbQ43nZfuMT3fvykQHbcysTIvuZbdKg-yJhAn0XZ2y4wVnBeP9RsXJ4gUQ46T52aO-1H4aeeZ2TgOUHV-MVy0IXlyIaILmN_p2huwPea9Rlf629SWW9NT-uKT4d08HZh6mDh0873o/s320/_DSC6895.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="p1"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times; font-size: small;"></span></div><div class="p1"><span class="s1"><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ingo</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Flo</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Redneck</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dry rock!!!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAMAoQwsmMzyeLZZE4s37VcI_3AtuH6kSm70JAFR-QLwN8iNckZspQEy5XMPgxIVpes_VgJ0X4a1rCN4G8pAsLXw-UmhOxBQETJm1eNyOzPh5s-F2dEiMrUZDchUJuJrpT39MhbLGf3UU/s1600/_DSC6889.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAMAoQwsmMzyeLZZE4s37VcI_3AtuH6kSm70JAFR-QLwN8iNckZspQEy5XMPgxIVpes_VgJ0X4a1rCN4G8pAsLXw-UmhOxBQETJm1eNyOzPh5s-F2dEiMrUZDchUJuJrpT39MhbLGf3UU/s320/_DSC6889.jpg" width="211" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dry rock 2!!!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDmfE6W11QayyggvVq8B7mgB5h5L8ymYcoIPLQMtjg4IgkdHwr8keorl1pQTL641UoBeT6K74XjsXTZPpvJU8BlIf9rKGn6ts1VpdEt5hGPpkxwpl715r5rpYakyq5c_YjWlPV2_AELMA/s1600/emi_barefoot+on+sacred+ground.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDmfE6W11QayyggvVq8B7mgB5h5L8ymYcoIPLQMtjg4IgkdHwr8keorl1pQTL641UoBeT6K74XjsXTZPpvJU8BlIf9rKGn6ts1VpdEt5hGPpkxwpl715r5rpYakyq5c_YjWlPV2_AELMA/s320/emi_barefoot+on+sacred+ground.jpg" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">barefoot on sacred ground, pic by flo</td></tr>
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</span></div>Emihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05894702583512613454noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1264413589131959513.post-55575109297960464592010-11-18T11:02:00.005+01:002010-11-20T10:46:15.287+01:00New PhotosSome new photos can be seen in the <a href="http://emi-moosburger.blogspot.com/2009/11/bouldering-shots.html">bouldering</a>, <a href="http://emi-moosburger.blogspot.com/2009/11/people-gallery.html">people</a> and <a href="http://emi-moosburger.blogspot.com/2010/07/randoms-gallery.html">randoms</a> gallery. Fall has been ok, although the snow came a bit too early for my taste, causing some unfinished business... Looking forward for the US trip know!<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpiXxN9HRmmB47KwmJEb_OFJeebswp_j6NzqpHWRopygE10KFpk5FjAWUAqwsR0DVQUkGeT1bWAwKUT9Z_aVzh666Z_7GJ2m9B3s6_JxwxL2IgB-uXmWh94EhxMBq9s5GOYnuls0RebVk/s1600/fichtl.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpiXxN9HRmmB47KwmJEb_OFJeebswp_j6NzqpHWRopygE10KFpk5FjAWUAqwsR0DVQUkGeT1bWAwKUT9Z_aVzh666Z_7GJ2m9B3s6_JxwxL2IgB-uXmWh94EhxMBq9s5GOYnuls0RebVk/s1600/fichtl.jpg" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">Reini Fichtinger in the Zillertal, AT</div>Emihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05894702583512613454noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1264413589131959513.post-30926178584190759582010-09-11T11:20:00.002+02:002010-09-11T11:21:15.348+02:00Naturized Movie!Hi everbody, just wanted to state that the brand new <a href="http://www.naturized.com/">naturized</a> website has gone online. Its a local site here in Austria that focuses on climbing, slacklining, downhillbiking and everything else that's fun! Editor in chief Berni Kogler has put together a nice flick with some cool impressions of all those games, with some other funny stuff included, so check it out if you want!<br />
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<a href="http://www.naturized.com/index.php/lifestyle-news-reader/items/get-naturized-the-movie.html">Here</a> is the direct link to the movie on their site.<br />
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seee ya, <i>Emi</i>Emihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05894702583512613454noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1264413589131959513.post-11823769506163838702010-08-24T21:04:00.000+02:002010-08-24T21:04:21.243+02:00Zillertal SessionsThe rain has stopped for some days again and we took our chance to find some dry blocs in our lovely home spot, the Zillertal. Lucky we were, stuff was dry and allthough conditions were moist and warm our crew (Katha, James, Ben, Ingo, Peter and I) had an amazing weekend outside, climbing new stuff and repeating old classics... Some pics in the galleries!<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUn2tmUu3L1Fs69-aUBh5gn9At6rrJuzRB3BkzVhokZ8H4f-1IOqacwcuMqh7uDrZBJkb10KxkSCJJnFgSnFq95B2CyfdtZ3hOIHGjc4R8Sme33jwvGdu1CuaxR25qNeGzZGvOog2vZnc/s1600/emi+drischiebl.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUn2tmUu3L1Fs69-aUBh5gn9At6rrJuzRB3BkzVhokZ8H4f-1IOqacwcuMqh7uDrZBJkb10KxkSCJJnFgSnFq95B2CyfdtZ3hOIHGjc4R8Sme33jwvGdu1CuaxR25qNeGzZGvOog2vZnc/s640/emi+drischiebl.jpg" width="425" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">Emi in Drischiebl | Magic Place | Pic by Ingo</div>Emihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05894702583512613454noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1264413589131959513.post-27224013763292036192010-08-06T16:32:00.002+02:002010-08-06T16:35:21.535+02:00Val DaoneWe spent some time in Val Daone recently, amazing blocs in a beautiful setting! Check out the galleries for some photos. Some more on <a href="http://www.chalkjunkie.at/">chalkjunkie</a> (FRESH Gallery).<br />
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<i>Emi</i>Emihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05894702583512613454noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1264413589131959513.post-10284578924775137302010-07-09T15:18:00.002+02:002010-07-09T15:21:35.038+02:00Fresh airHi everybody, just wanted to say that there is a new gallery on my blog, one showing some of the <a href="http://emi-moosburger.blogspot.com/2010/07/randoms-gallery.html">random</a> shots I have lying arround on my computer wich I thought would be cool and interesting to share! Also there is some more new pics in some of the other galleries so have a look if you want.<br />
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On another note, I just got my new camera the other day and I am totally psyched to go out and shoot. Wich I soon will have more time for again (along with climbing outside)! And, as the sweet toy also films on HD, we hopefully will have some crispy little flics in our bags in the near future, so stay tuned and above all: enjoy ya climbing!<br />
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Cheers, <i>Emi</i>Emihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05894702583512613454noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1264413589131959513.post-48935085009445410332010-07-09T15:03:00.004+02:002013-12-27T21:25:34.754+01:00Randoms GalleryEverything, everywhere.<br />
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</div><div style="text-align: center;"><object height="960" width="760"><param name="Movie" value="https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/2917376/viewer.swf"><param name="Flashvars" value="xmlDataPath=https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/2917376/randoms%20gallery/randoms%20gallery.xml"><param name="bgcolor" value="#413729"><embed src="https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/2917376/viewer.swf" flashvars="xmlDataPath=https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/2917376/randoms%20gallery/randoms%20gallery.xml" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" bgcolor="#413729" height="960" width="760"></embed></object></div>Emihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05894702583512613454noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1264413589131959513.post-37262533089589481822010-06-28T18:31:00.001+02:002010-06-28T18:32:13.521+02:00NATURIZED trailerCheck out the trailer of Berni Kogler's upcoming movie for Naturized! <br />
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<div style="text-align: center;"><object height="485" width="650"><param name="allowfullscreen" value="true" /><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always" /><param name="movie" value="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=12858650&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=&fullscreen=1" /><embed src="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=12858650&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=&fullscreen=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowscriptaccess="always" width="650" height="485"></embed></object></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://vimeo.com/12858650">GET NATURIZED Teaser</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user2226808">Berni Kogler</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.</div><br />
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<span style="color: #333333;">.</span>Emihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05894702583512613454noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1264413589131959513.post-29351385573879696352010-06-08T21:48:00.004+02:002010-06-08T21:52:31.771+02:00So long......since the last post... sorry for that but things just have been really busy, not in climbing outdoors though unfortunatly! Since the semester is coming to an end things at Uni are spicing up really hard, lots of stuff to do, papers to write, presentations, and all this kinda stuff... And to top it all, there was a period of straigth rain in Austria for the last four weeks! So well, all there was left to do, in lack of spare time and because of the weather, was to go to the gym and train. It was fun but I truely miss the rock and all those cool sessions outside and simply can't wait for summer and more time for climbing! Anyways, enough of the whining, I found this video on my computer that I once made after the rocklands trip last summer and somehow we never put it online somewhere, so here it is! It's the footage of one of my best climbing days ever... Psyched for the rocks!! <i>- Emi -</i><br />
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<div style="text-align: center;"><object height="485" width="650"><param name="allowfullscreen" value="true" /><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always" /><param name="movie" value="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=9250370&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=&fullscreen=1" /><embed src="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=9250370&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=&fullscreen=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowscriptaccess="always" width="650" height="485"></embed></object></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://vimeo.com/9250370">rocklands '09 the nice day</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user2444807">emi-moosburger.blogspot.com</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.</div><br />
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<span style="color: #333333;">.</span>Emihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05894702583512613454noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1264413589131959513.post-46808835246772111742010-04-05T19:39:00.004+02:002010-04-05T19:43:52.316+02:00Swizzy update...We've once more been down in Ticino last week, originally planed to stay for a week at least but unfortunatly the weather wasn't nice to us (as mostly this winter...) and after four days we just couldn't stand the rain and even snowfall(!) anymore...<br />
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Anyways we had a good start with a sunny day in Chironico, Juri and Mario and Me and lots of cool Boulders in the 101 sector.<br />
First stop was a roof called "Tricky", a really nice and weird 8A were you have to do some crazy double toehooking to solve the puzzle and climb out to the lip... Juri quickly found out the solution (thx!!) and so we soon all succeeded. Next we moved over to test our powerendurance skills on "The Arete with the Pocket", a sustained 8A with about 20 moves that each for itself aren't really hard but add up on the redpoint and create some nice spice in your forearms! Got my first proper pump this year... but luckily made it to the top though :) After a long long rest the pump finally dissappeared and I felt ready to go and try "Keinfisch Kleinfisch" again, a short Dave Graham 8B just a minute down the hill. It involves some nice compression climbing with a brutal kneebar into a kinda tricky mantle and a slab to top it out. I allready checked it out last time and this time got some nice beta-tips from my mate Martin who just did it a couple of days before... so allthough kinda sour allready, with the solution more technically than hard pulling, I somehow managed to sneak through the problem, didn't punt on the mantle, vibrated up the sandy slab and had it in my bag, end of a nice day!!<br />
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Below is a photo of Flo bouldering in "Atlantis" on the last rain free day before we gave up and bailed... At least the snow was good back at home :) some more shots in the <a href="http://emi-moosburger.blogspot.com/2009/11/bouldering-shots.html">bouldering gallery</a>.<br />
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Happy easter everyone!<br />
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<i>Emi</i><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQVeZp1MSzgs7yvfnSXpm0KhyuZ3hhzKUB-G5aA5CGXaXDFaG6aEY-RrbS2QSo587CnSkg_cinw3bOj9lxmPTj1_gwOVBY2kmqrL71O9Jaq7XYzfWM_Xkd7l1M7NzxKBrx7zSvVibSguQ/s1600/floatlantis.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQVeZp1MSzgs7yvfnSXpm0KhyuZ3hhzKUB-G5aA5CGXaXDFaG6aEY-RrbS2QSo587CnSkg_cinw3bOj9lxmPTj1_gwOVBY2kmqrL71O9Jaq7XYzfWM_Xkd7l1M7NzxKBrx7zSvVibSguQ/s640/floatlantis.jpg" width="428" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div>Emihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05894702583512613454noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1264413589131959513.post-45902439912522703102010-03-18T17:21:00.005+01:002010-03-18T17:32:58.660+01:00Powder days...We've been out in the snow recently and had some good days! Zlu has put up a new Gallery on his <a href="http://www.chalkjunkie.at/">webpage</a> called "white gold" where some shots of the action can be seen. Below is a clip of how I put an end to my snowboard by hitting some snow-covered rocks, those bastards!! Well what can I say... Allways wear a helmet :) <br />
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</div><div style="text-align: center;"><object height="485" width="650"><param name="allowfullscreen" value="true" /><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always" /><param name="movie" value="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=10260695&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=&fullscreen=1" /><embed src="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=10260695&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=&fullscreen=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowscriptaccess="always" width="650" height="485"></embed></object></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://vimeo.com/10260695">how i killed my board...</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user2444807">emi-moosburger.blogspot.com</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a><br />
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<span style="color: #333333;">.</span>Emihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05894702583512613454noreply@blogger.com2